Linen Blend: Shaoxing Mujia Textile Runs Two 220 GSM Qualities Because the Garment Decides the Ratio

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Shaoxing Mujia Textile Co., Ltd. runs MJ5506, a 55 percent linen 45 percent cotton at 220 GSM in 60 colours, and MJ8015, a 20 percent linen 80 percent viscose sand-washed at 220 GSM in 211 colours, on the same looms.

Zhuji, China – November 12, 2026 – Shaoxing Mujia Textile has published the colour cards for two linen blends that share a weight and a width and almost nothing else: MJ5506 at 55 percent linen and 45 percent cotton, and MJ8015 at 20 percent linen and 80 percent viscose, both at 220 GSM (grams per square metre) and both between 138 and 140 cm.

The pair exists because the blend ratio follows the garment rather than measuring quality.

Linen is stiff, creases hard and does not drape. Those properties are right for one category of garment and wrong for another. A 55/45 at 220 GSM makes a shirting and a summer jacket; a 20/80 at the same weight makes a dress.

MJ5506 is the 55/45. The cotton half softens the linen enough to sew without constant pressing, and the linen half keeps the cloth from going limp in humidity. It runs 140 cm wide in 60 ready colours, on a card that stays close to natural, ecru, indigo, olive and a handful of garment-dyed tones. The surface carries a natural slub and the hand is dry.

It wrinkles, and in this market the wrinkle is the visual signature rather than a fault. Makers of camp shirts, unstructured jackets and wide-leg summer trousers buy it for that reason.

“The question we get is which ratio is better, and there is no answer to it in the abstract,” says Zhou Jia, founder and director of Shaoxing Mujia Textile Co., Ltd. “A 55/45 makes a jacket and a 20/80 makes a dress. The ratio follows the pattern, not the other way round.”

MJ8015 is the 20/80. The viscose carries the drape and the linen supplies the dry surface. It runs 138 to 140 cm wide in 211 ready colours, and the surface is sand-washed.

Sand washing is what separates it from a plain 20/80. The finished cloth is tumbled against an abrasive medium, which raises a fine nap and breaks the surface fibres. The hand goes from crisp to soft, the weight of the cloth in the hand drops noticeably even though the GSM is unchanged, and the colour takes on a slightly dusty cast.

The process costs twice. It adds a step, and it removes a small amount of cloth, the surface fibre that is abraded away. A sand-washed 220 GSM is therefore not the same article as a plain 220 GSM that weighs the same on the scale.

Three things show up on a sand-washed sample. Under a low raking light a genuine wash shows a directional nap, faint but visible, like the surface of a peach. Rubbed against a white cloth it transfers lightly, and heavy transfer means the abraded fibre was not cleared and the garment will shed on the first wear. The selvedge, the finished edge of the cloth, differs from the centre, because sand washing acts more strongly at the edges; a noticeable difference means the cloth was washed in rope form rather than open width, and the centre may be under-processed.

The two cards are built for different jobs. The 60-colour card sits close to the natural, ecru, indigo and olive tones linen is usually dyed in. The 211-colour card is built for multi-colour ranges, where a distributor may stock twelve shades for a season or a brand may run a colour-of-the-month drop. Both numbers are what the cards carry and neither is a ceiling, because a shade outside them is a lab dip, a small dye sample matched against a reference, priced and timed like any other development.

Running both blends at the same weight on the same looms has one practical effect. The same indigo reference is dyed to the same standard on both qualities, because both are dyed at the same partner dyehouse. A buyer building a range across the two does not get a colour break at the point where the ratio changes.

The mill has been weaving linen blends in Fengqiao, Zhuji since 2012: 30 Lenado air-jet looms, which carry the weft on a jet of air, in a 5,000 square metre shed, about five million metres a year. The mill weaves and does not dye or sand-wash. Those run at partner mills, and the company holds the lab dip and the finish approval between the buyer and them.

Both qualities and both colour cards are on the Shaoxing Mujia Textile linen blend page at https://mujiatextile.com/linen-blend-fabric-manufacturer.html.

About Shaoxing Mujia Textile Co., Ltd.

Founded in 2012 and registered in Zhuji, Zhejiang, Shaoxing Mujia Textile Co., Ltd. runs 30 Lenado air-jet looms in a 5,000 square metre plant and produces about five million metres of woven fabric a year. The company weaves in Fengqiao and works with partner mills for dyeing and finishing, holding the lab dip and the AQL (acceptable quality limit) 2.5 inspection on the buyer side of the order, with a four-point inspection on every roll. Full specifications are at https://mujiatextile.com.

Media Contact:
Name: Emily Zhou
Company: Shaoxing Mujia Textile Co., Ltd.
Email: shaoxingtextile@coze.email
Phone: +86 151 5752 5252
Address: No.5 Wenchuang Road, Fengqiao Town, Zhuji, Zhejiang 311811, China
Website: https://mujiatextile.com

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